I use a router mounted to a wide flat base that rests on a form to control the depth. Then I adjust the depth of the cut and make a series of rings forming a "topographical map."
Then using a couple of finger planes, I carve off the ridges and sand it smooth creating the final arched shape of the outside.
Then I flip it over and hand carve the inside to exact thicknesses.
This one will use an X-bracing system. Each spruce tone bar must be shaped to match the inside curve exactly.
I glue them into place using a "Go-Bar Deck," which uses flexible bars wedged against the top of the deck to provide pressure while the glue sets. It works great for gluing parts that are difficult for regular clamps.
I also use the Go-Bars to glue the top plate onto the rim assembly.
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